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明清服飾紋樣“喜相逢”研究

發(fā)布時間:2019-06-14 14:02
【摘要】:“喜相逢”紋樣是中國傳統(tǒng)紋樣之一,在公元前3千多年前就已出現(xiàn)紋樣結構的雛形,但學術界還未對此紋樣展開深入研究!跋蚕喾辍奔y樣又可稱為“雙關”或“一整二破”。此紋樣以“S”形為骨線,將整圓一分為二,兩子紋樣向中心回旋扭動,一正一反,形成一個靈動又有趣的圖案。其子紋樣可以為任意植物紋、動物紋,甚至是人物紋。另外,“喜相逢”紋樣也可與方勝紋、樗蒲紋等紋樣組合出現(xiàn),形成豐富多彩的圖案形式。本文在物質(zhì)文化史研究的視野下對“喜相逢”紋樣的源流與演變、在明清服飾上的應用及此紋樣的美學特征與寓意性等相關問題展開研究,結合文獻典籍、出土實物、傳世實物,通過交叉對比的方法進行分析。本文首次引用西周和秦朝實物資料,銜接了“喜相逢”紋樣的流變。此外,通過研究明清補服、鞠衣、吉服、道衣、戲衣、衣料、腰牌和掌扇上的“喜相逢”紋樣,來探究此紋樣在明清時期的文化內(nèi)涵。
[Abstract]:The pattern of "happy meet" is one of the traditional Chinese patterns, which appeared in the embryonic form of pattern structure more than 3000 years before BC, but the academic circles have not yet carried on the thorough research to this pattern. The pattern of "happy meet" can also be called "pun" or "one whole and two broken". This pattern takes the "S" shape as the bone line, divides the whole circle into two, the two subpatterns revolve around the center, one by one, forming a smart and interesting pattern. Its child pattern can be any plant pattern, animal grain, or even character pattern. In addition, the "happy meet" pattern can also be combined with Fang Sheng pattern, Ailanthus pattern and other patterns, forming a rich and colorful pattern form. From the perspective of the study of material and cultural history, this paper studies the origin and evolution of the pattern of "happy meeting", the application of the pattern in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the aesthetic characteristics and moral characteristics of the pattern, and so on. Combined with the literature classics, unearthed objects, handed down objects, through cross-comparison methods, this paper studies the origin and evolution of the "happy meeting" patterns, the application of the patterns in Ming and Qing dynasties, and the aesthetic characteristics and allegorical characteristics of the patterns. In this paper, the physical data of the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Qin Dynasty are quoted for the first time to link up the evolution of the "happy meet" pattern. In addition, the cultural connotation of this pattern in Ming and Qing dynasties was explored by studying the "happy meet" pattern on Ming and Qing Dynasty supplementary clothes, bow clothes, auspicious clothes, Taoist clothes, theatrical clothes, clothing materials, waist cards and palm fans.
【學位授予單位】:北京服裝學院
【學位級別】:碩士
【學位授予年份】:2017
【分類號】:J523.5

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