發(fā)布時(shí)間：2019-06-12 13:52

【摘要】：民國(guó)時(shí)期作為我國(guó)旗袍發(fā)展的鼎盛時(shí)期,其特殊的歷史和文化背景賦予這一時(shí)期旗袍獨(dú)特的裝飾風(fēng)格和審美意趣,緣飾作為民國(guó)旗袍重要的裝飾性設(shè)計(jì)元素,具有古今、中西服飾文化混同的時(shí)代特點(diǎn),其豐富的表現(xiàn)形式和裝飾內(nèi)容蘊(yùn)藏著深厚的文化內(nèi)涵和藝術(shù)價(jià)值。旗袍緣飾是對(duì)旗袍衣料的邊緣及接縫部位的修整和裝飾處理,對(duì)旗袍主體有保護(hù)和修飾的作用。本文對(duì)旗袍及其緣飾的相關(guān)概念作出界定,指出旗袍緣飾的風(fēng)格特征隨旗袍的發(fā)展而變化,從實(shí)用性、裝飾性和社會(huì)性三個(gè)方面對(duì)旗袍緣飾的特征進(jìn)行了具體的分析。結(jié)合民國(guó)時(shí)期的社會(huì)文化背景,對(duì)比民國(guó)不同時(shí)期、不同流派的旗袍及其緣飾設(shè)計(jì)風(fēng)格的異同,通過(guò)對(duì)旗袍緣飾的色彩、構(gòu)成形式、材料、工藝以及裝飾位置等構(gòu)成要素的具體特征進(jìn)行詳細(xì)的梳理與分析,得出這一時(shí)期旗袍緣飾具有用色淡雅、形式多樣、取材豐富、做工精致、裝飾靈活等設(shè)計(jì)特點(diǎn)。對(duì)比現(xiàn)代旗袍和民國(guó)旗袍在緣飾的表現(xiàn)形式和工藝技法上的異同,總結(jié)其變化成因,并通過(guò)對(duì)現(xiàn)代消費(fèi)者的審美心理以及個(gè)別服裝品牌設(shè)計(jì)案例的研究,得出將民國(guó)時(shí)期旗袍緣飾的設(shè)計(jì)元素應(yīng)用于現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)具有一定的可行性的結(jié)論。基于此,本文從民國(guó)時(shí)期旗袍緣飾的設(shè)計(jì)手法和裝飾規(guī)律中汲取靈感,結(jié)合現(xiàn)代的服飾審美和設(shè)計(jì)手段,通過(guò)直接應(yīng)用和間接應(yīng)用的方式以及加、減法設(shè)計(jì)的處理手段展開設(shè)計(jì)實(shí)踐探索,將民國(guó)旗袍緣飾的色彩、材料以及工藝等設(shè)計(jì)元素融入現(xiàn)代服裝的緣飾設(shè)計(jì),為其增添現(xiàn)代感和時(shí)尚性的同時(shí),以期為提升現(xiàn)代服裝裝飾性設(shè)計(jì)的文化內(nèi)涵和藝術(shù)價(jià)值提供一些參考。
[Abstract]:The period of the Republic of China, as the heyday of the development of the Chinese flag, has given the special historical and cultural background of this period to the unique decorative style and aesthetic interest of the banner of the period, which is the important decorative design element of the Republic of China, and has the characteristics of the times of the mixed culture of the ancient and modern and the Chinese and the western. Its rich forms and contents contain profound cultural connotation and artistic value. The dress of the Qipao is the edge of the dress and the finishing and decoration of the seam, and it has the function of protecting and modifying the main body of the cheongsam. This paper defines the related concepts of the cheongsam and its edge, and points out that the characteristics of the cheongsam's origin are analyzed from the three aspects of practicability, decoration and sociality. In the light of the social and cultural background of the Republic of China, compared with the different periods of the Republic of China, the similarities and differences in the design style of the Qipao and its fate in different schools, through the detailed analysis of the specific features of the color, the form, the material, the process and the decoration position, etc., It is concluded that this period is characterized by light and elegant color, various forms, rich material, exquisite workmanship and flexible decoration. In contrast to the similarities and differences between the expression of the modern cheongsam and the pajamas of the Republic of China, the paper summarizes the causes of the change, and through the study of the aesthetic psychology of the modern consumers and the design cases of individual clothing brands, It is concluded that the design element of the Chinese flag of the Republic of China is applied to the modern fashion design and has certain feasibility. On the basis of this, this paper draws inspiration from the design method and the decoration law of the flag of the Republic of China during the Republic of China, and explores the design practice by means of the direct application and the indirect application and the processing means of the addition and subtraction design in combination with the modern clothing aesthetic and design means. The color, material, process and other design elements of the flag of the Republic of China are integrated into the edge decoration design of the modern garment, and the modern sense and the fashion are added, so as to provide some reference for improving the cultural connotation and the artistic value of the decorative design of the modern clothes.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：北京服裝學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號(hào)】：TS941.2

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